It’s officially sunscreen season, and there’s something we need to talk about. Don’t get me wrong. It’s definitely important to wear sunscreen year-round, but I consider this time of year key because the sun can be at its strongest once spring and summer hit. Recently, I’ve discovered so many great formulas around the world—from Europe to Australia and Korea—with new, innovative filters that I feel, as a beauty editor, are my duty to try. I’ve been immediately disappointed, however, upon realizing that these advanced filters aren’t available to buy in the U.S., and we’re barred from buying them elsewhere online.
Of course, I decided to investigate the issue and figure out why companies aren’t able to offer their innovations here in the U.S. What I discovered is disappointing but not surprising. If you were hoping to be able to buy more advanced sunscreen filters here soon, the process may take longer than we expect. I asked three experts to weigh in on everything from the safety of our current filters to the FDA’s approval process here in the U.S. For everything they shared and some A+ formulas that are available, keep scrolling.
What’s the holdup?
The last time an OTC sunscreen ingredient was approved in the U.S. was in the ’90s, which has caused a lot of frustration among professionals and companies alike. There are a few reasons why some K-beauty sunscreens and formulas approved in the EU aren’t allowed to be sold in the U.S. Dieux co-founder Charlotte Palermino shared a few more details. “Here in the U.S., sunscreen is regulated like a drug, but in most other countries, it’s regulated like a cosmetic,” she explains. “This means that the United States regulates sunscreens more strictly, requiring more stringent safety testing to approve new filters. The biggest issue is how the U.S. approves filters, not that we regulate like they’re drugs. Australia does a great job of approving newer, more innovative filters while still treating sunscreen as a product that’s making drug claims (the TGA). Unfortunately, in the U.S., it’s legislation that hasn’t caught up to the times and slow bureaucracy. It’s important to note that many of the filters in the U.S., like avobenzone, are [also] used internationally. They just have a greater selection to choose from.”
A spokesperson for the FDA also commented on this. “There has been some confusion among the public, with comments that the agency has delayed or been slow to review new sunscreen ingredients,” they explain. “It’s important to clarify that, with the exception of bemotrizinol, there are no pending submissions to the agency for new sunscreen ingredients. Many years ago, the FDA received applications seeking to market eight new sunscreen active ingredients. These applications proposed adding the eight active ingredients to the over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen monograph. The OTC sunscreen monograph allows manufacturers to use a sunscreen active ingredient in a wide range of sunscreen product formulations without FDA preapproval of the product if the product follows the conditions described in the monograph. The agency evaluated all eight applications and identified that the applications did not contain sufficient data about the safety of these ingredients, and the agency could not recognize them as safe and effective. The FDA told manufacturers over nine years ago about the specific information that they needed to submit to the FDA to assure consumers that the active ingredients are safe and effective.”
This seemed contradictory to me, so I did a bit of my own research on why new filters haven’t been approved in the U.S. After doing more research, I discovered that, like Palermino said, the holdup is most likely due to legislation. Due to the 1938 Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act, one of the main issues is that new filters must be tested on animals here in the U.S. in order for companies to present robust safety data, which most aren’t on board with and fear will cause consumer backlash. A bill was presented in 2024 to Congress as an amendment that would allow non-animal testing that is currently still pending. It also seems that companies would have to spend a lot of money (somewhere in the millions) to prove the efficacy of the new filter—money some of them may not have.
Are sunscreen filters in other countries more advanced?
David Andrews, PhD., acting chief science officer for the Environmental Working Group, says that newer sunscreen filters provide broader and more balanced protection against UVA rays, which can contribute to skin aging and increase the risk of skin cancer: “Many sunscreens sold in the U.S. still rely on a limited set of older active ingredients, like oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have been shown to penetrate the skin and may interfere with hormone function. In contrast, European and Asian markets have approved more modern filters such as Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, and Uvinul A Plus, which offer stronger UVA protection and appear to have better safety profiles for human health. Unfortunately, due to long-standing delays in the FDA’s approval process, these advanced ingredients remain unavailable in the U.S., limiting American consumers to fewer and potentially less safe options.” The EWG submitted comments on this to the FDA in 2019.
The consensus from both Palermino and Andrews is that newer filters offer better broad-spectrum protection, protecting against both UVA and UVB radiation. “Some can tackle visible light, are less prone to causing irritation, have excellent safety profiles, and are more elegant to apply,” Palermino says. “I see many people who do not work in the industry decry ‘cosmetic elegance’ as some marketing trick that has no substance. With sunscreen, it’s critical to applying the correct amount. Ultimately, it’s easier to make a beautiful, nonirritating sunscreen abroad that you want to lather all over your face and body. Sunscreen is testing at one fourth of a teaspoon for the face and neck—think a much larger dollop than your moisturizer.”
Are the filters we have in the U.S. safe?
There are a lot of conflicting answers on this. The safety of some filters has been called into question recently as Andrews mentioned above. “Many of the filters allowed in the U.S. raise serious safety concerns,” he says. “According to FDA research and EWG analysis, chemical filters like oxybenzone, octinoxate, and homosalate are absorbed into the bloodstream at levels that exceed the FDA’s own safety thresholds. Oxybenzone has been linked to hormone disruption and allergic skin reactions, and homosalate has been shown to disrupt hormone function and accumulate in the body. EWG recommends avoiding chemical sunscreens containing these ingredients when possible, especially for children and pregnant women.” Organizations like the National Park Service also say they can harm coral reefs.
Mineral-based filters like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have the most robust safety profiles because they only sit on the skin’s surface and reflect UV rays away from the skin. Palermino says, “From a testing point of view, the U.S. isn’t as strong as other countries with UVA radiation testing, so it’s my preference to use sunscreens that test in the U.S. and Europe (like La Roche-Posay), test in the U.S. and Australia (like Ultra Violette, which is launching an American version of its sunscreen in the U.S.), or test in Korea and Europe (the Korean version of Beauty of Joseon—the new U.S. version doesn’t have this transparency into testing).”
Does this put us at a disadvantage?
I definitely don’t want to alarm anyone with this article—I just think it’s important to have all the information before deciding what’s best for you and your skin. Andrews thinks that our inability to approve new filters in the U.S. does put consumers at a bit of a disadvantage. While filters like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have the most robust safety data and are available everywhere in the U.S., there are more advanced filters being used in Europe and Asia that we could be missing out on. “Modern sunscreen filters available in Europe and elsewhere provide stronger UVA protection, which is critical since UVA exposure is a known risk factor for melanoma and other skin cancers,” Andrews says. “Because many U.S. sunscreens lack sufficient UVA protection, consumers may mistakenly believe they are fully protected while still absorbing harmful rays that can contribute to skin cancer over time.”
My Favorite Sunscreens Available in the U.S.
Like other beauty products such as mascara and perfume, sunscreen is a super-personal product. Generally, I try to stay away from filters like oxybenzone, octinoxate, and homosalate just to be safe, so sometimes, it can be challenging to find formulas for my Brown, acne-prone skin. Below, I’m listing some of my absolute ride-or-die formulas that work so well for both.
Beauty of Joseon
Relief Sun
This viral Korean formula is beloved for a reason and one of my all time favorites. It feels more like a moisturizer but is still lightweight and great for sensitive skin. I also never experience any breakouts with this. As a pro tip, I always like to order my Korean sunscreen from YesStyle (an authorized K-beauty retailer) so I know I’m getting the Korean version of the product.
Isntree
Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel
Who What Wear beauty editor Kaitlyn McLintock and I absolutely love this sunscreen. We always talk about the superior-feeling texture of Korean sunscreens, and this one can’t be beat. It’s so hydrating on the skin and perfect for redness and sensitivities.
iS Clinical
Extreme Protect SPF 40
This formula is expensive but so worth it. Offering SPF 40 mineral-only protection, it’s one of the best zinc-based formulas I’ve used that doesn’t leave a white cast or cause any breakouts. It’s also really hydrating and seals in the rest of my skincare routine in such a beautiful way.
Luzern Labs
Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30
This is another luxury formula that I absolutely love. It’s so creamy on the skin and has such a lovely natural scent.
iUNIK
Centella Calming Daily Sunscreen
This Korean formula is especially great for acne-prone skin because it helps calm redness and breakouts with a hefty dose of centella asiatica extract. It’s also super affordable.
CAY SKIN
Mo’Bay Mineral Sunscreen Drops SPF 30
These mineral sunscreen drops from Cay give you such a glow and feel so weightless on the skin. This product also helps brighten skin, improving the appearance of dark spots.
Lion Pose
Ghost-Buster 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 42
Lion Pose’s Ghost-Buster formula is aptly named. It leaves no white cast and leaves your skin looking extra glowy.
Tatcha
The Silk Sunscreen SPF 50
Tatcha’s mineral-based formula is a longtime favorite of mine. It lives up to its name and is so silky on the skin. It also acts as a great base for makeup.
